Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Kyoto
Honshu, Japan

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

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To stroll through Kyoto is to travel through 12 centuries of Japan’s history. Once the home of the imperial court, the city was also a center of Japanese religion, aesthetics, music, theater, and dance, reaching its height as a center for crafts during the Muromachi Period (1338—1573). Spared by Allied bombing during World War II, the city is said to hold 20 percent of all Japan’s national treasures, including more than 1,700 Buddhist temples and 300 Shinto shrines, all dispersed (often hidden) amid its modern cityscape. Kyoto’s beauty can sometimes be elusive, but thoughtful visitors can still glimpse the Japan of the past in its temples and gardens, while its modern side offers a sophisticated mix of tradition and contemporary innovation.

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Temples and Top Attractions

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Fushimi Inari—One of Kyoto’s greatest sights is the 10,000 reddish orange torii (gates) of the taisha (shrine) of Inari, in the Fushimi area of Kyoto. Forming a 2.5-mile tunnel up the wooded mountainside, the lacquered torii are donated by Japanese businesses, their names written in black lettering on each gate, asking Inari—the kami (or spirit) of rice, sake, and prosperity—for a blessing. This is the largest and most famous shrine dedicated to Inari and the head shrine of more than 40,000 found nationwide. A 2- to 3-hour walk up to Mount Inari rewards you with magnificent views of Kyoto, and there are plenty of stops along the way for inarizushi (sushi rice in a pocket of fried tofu) and a cup of tea. Info: Tel 81/75-641-7331; http://www.inari.jp.

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Torii (gates) line the Fushimi Inari shrine, which dates to the 8th century, when worshippers were more likely to pray for a good rice harvest than business prosperity.

Kinkaku-ji and Ginkaku-ji—Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu commissioned the 14th-century Kinkaku-ji (Temple of the Golden Pavilion) as his retirement home, intending its two top floors to be sheathed in gold leaf, though he got no farther than the ceiling of the third floor in his lifetime. After his death, his son converted the building into a Zen temple in accordance with his father’s wishes. The temple was torched by a disgruntled monk in 1950 and rebuilt to its original specifications by 1955; by 1987, the gold-leaf coating finally extended to the top two floors. Kinkaku-ji is highly revered as a shariden, a site housing relics of the Buddha, and is probably the most photographed structure in Kyoto.

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

On the opposite side of town, the shogun’s grandson, Ashikaga Yoshimasa, commissioned the two-story pagoda Ginkaku-ji (Temple of the Silver Pavilion) in the 1480s in homage to his grandfather’s Kinkaku-ji. Initially used as a rural retreat, the home was converted to a Rinzai Zen temple after Yoshimasa’s death in 1490. Formerly part of a much larger villa, it overlooks a pond and gardens designed by a master landscape architect for meditative strolling. The two-mile-long Philosopher’s Walk outside its gate follows a narrow canal that is particularly beautiful when the cherry trees that line its banks are in full bloom. Kinkaku-ji: Tel 81/75-461-0013. Ginkaku-ji: Tel 81/75-771-5725.

Kiyomizu-dera—One of the most celebrated temples of Japan, Kiyomizu-dera, the Pure Water Temple, was founded in 778 and was associated with the Hosso sect of Buddhism, one of the oldest in Japan. Its present buildings were constructed between 1631 and 1633 without a single nail; the main hall’s large, wooden terrace juts out over the valley, offering beautiful views of the city. Below, three streams tumble into a pond, creating the Otowa (Sound of Feathers) waterfall, where you can drink the springwater, said to have wish-granting powers. The complex houses several shrines; the Jishu Shrine is dedicated to the deity of love and attracts young men and women who make offerings and buy lucky charms to help find their life partners. Info: Tel 81/75-551-1234; http://www.kiyomizudera.or.jp.

Nijo-jo—Completed in 1626 under Iemitsu the third Tokugawa shogun of a united Japan, Nijo Castle is a perfect example of the paranoia of the era. Two palaces are surrounded by a moat and stone walls, and have secret rooms and corridors where hidden samurai guards could keep watch. Ninomaru Palace, built almost entirely of Hinoki cypress, includes ingenious “nightingale” floors that “sing” when walked upon. Extensive gardens attributed to the renowned gardener Kobori Enshu originally had no trees, as falling leaves symbolized the transience of life to the shogun and his samurai. Info: Tel 81/75-841-0096; http://www.city.kyoto.jp/bunshi/nijojo/english.

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Ryoan-ji—A lovely half-hour walk from Kinkaku-ji leads to the Ryoan Temple, whose small, simple, 215-year-old garden of raked white gravel and 15 rocks arranged in five groupings has become a world-recognized symbol of Zen wisdom. At Ryoan-ji, regardless of where you stand, only 14 of the 15 rocks can be seen at any given time—interpreted by some to mean that true completion is never possible. The garden’s designer remains a mystery, the rock arrangement’s meaning a riddle. It is one of Japan’s most famous gardens, attracting large crowds daily; best to visit very early in the morning for a moment of quiet contemplation. Info: Tel 81/75-463-2216; http://www.ryoanji.jp.

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Saiho-ji—Also referred to as Koke-dera (Moss Temple), the Zen Buddhist temple of Saiho was re-created in 1339 by priest Muso Soseki on the site of an earlier temple and is now known for its more than 120 varieties of moss. Soseki designed the two-tiered dry gardens around a pond in the shape of the Chinese character for heart or mind; then Mother Nature took over and draped the gardens in a soft moss blanket in hues of gold and green. Visitors must write to the temple in advance to gain admission; once permission is granted, an entrance fee of $27 (the highest in Kyoto) is expected on arrival. Visitors take part in a 1-hour Buddhist ceremony, chanting sutras with the monks and practicing Japanese characters (calligraphy), before enjoying the dark, soothing Zen gardens. Info: Tel 81/75-391-3631. Mailing address: 56 Matsuo-Jingatanicho, Nishikyo-ku, Kyoto, 615-8286, Japan.

Sanjusangendo—Behind a simple and austere exterior, Sanjusangendo (known locally as Rengeo-in) is a 400-foot-long hall (the longest wooden structure in Japan), the remarkable repository of 1,001 standing statues of Bodhisattva Kannon, the Buddhist Goddess of Mercy. View row upon row of life-size statues beautifully carved from Japanese cypress and covered in gold leaf: Every statue has 40 arms, each with the power to save 25 worlds. They surround one seated Kannon, joining the 28 deities who protect the universe. Many of the statues date back to the 12th century, and the structure dates from 1266. Info: Tel 81/75-525-0033; http://sanjusangendo.jp.

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Tenryu-ji—The 14th-century Tenryu-ji (Temple of the Heavenly Dragon) is the first ranked of the Kyoto Gozan or Five Great Zen Temples of Kyoto (the others are Shokoku-ji, Kennin-ji, Tofuku-ji, and Manju-ji), dedicated to the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism. Rinzai focuses on riddles that lack a rational answer, forcing the mind to ponder insoluble problems. Nestled in tranquil surroundings on the western edge of the suburb of Arashiyama, Tenryu-ji offers fine Zen gardens, including a strolling garden and Japan’s oldest example of shakkei, or borrowed scenery, which incorporates distant landmarks into the garden’s design. Don’t miss the dragon painting on the ceiling of the lecture hall where monks meditate. A simple but artful lunch of shojin-ryori cuisine is served for visitors at Shigetsu, within the temple grounds. Reservations are recommended. Info: Tel 81/75-881-1235.

Other Must-Dos

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Gion District—Traditional Kyoto town houses, with their red-and-white paper lanterns, are iconic within the entertainment quarter of Gion, where the geisha (gei, “art,” plus sha, “person”) live and work. Geisha (or Geiko, as they are called locally) are women who are trained in traditional music and dance and entertain at private, usually all-male, parties. Gion was originally developed to accommodate travelers and visitors to the Yasaka Shrine, then evolved into the most famous geisha district in all Japan; it remains very exclusive but is more welcoming to visitors than in the past. Geisha and young apprentices called maiko dressed in exquisite kimonos can still be seen in the evenings as they travel between their various engagements at exclusive ochaya (teahouses and restaurants), particularly those on Hanami-koji Street. Another integral part of Gion’s entertainment culture is the Minami-za Kabuki Theater, which was established in the 17th century, making it Japan’s oldest theater. The current structure, which dates from 1929, hosts regular performances as well as the yearly December Kaomise festival, a showcase of Kabuki’s most celebrated performers. Info: Tel 81/3-6745-0333; http://www.kabuki-bito.jp/eng.

Gion’s apprentice geisha are known as maiko.

Nishiki-Koji—Steeped in culture and history, Nishiki Market (known as “Kyoto’s kitchen”) is a narrow, covered street lined with more than 100 shops. Some of the fishmongers, fresh-produce grocers, and pickle purveyors have been here for generations (and often live directly over their shops) and are joined by newer tofu doughnut sellers and green-tea ice-cream vendors. You can eat on the run or savor samples along the way, enjoying a wonderful glimpse into Kyoto’s food culture. How: For customized Kyoto food tours, contact Michi Travel. Tel 81/352-13-5040; http://www.michitravel.com.

Visit with a geisha—Thanks to the development of international tourism in Kyoto, it is now far easier than it used to be to experience the traditional entertainment of a geisha party in one of Kyoto’s five hanamachi (geisha entertainment districts). Kyoto Sights and Nights organizes private engagements with geisha and maiko, including dinner and musical entertainment. This is an unusual and enlightening chance to speak directly with these traditional entertainers about their daily life and training in the arts. Kyoto Sights and Nights also runs afternoon walking lectures through the hanamachi, where you can learn more about their intriguing history and customs. Kyoto Sights and Nights: Tel 81/905-169-1654; http://www.kyotosightsandnights.com.

Festivals (Matsuri)

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Cherry Blossoms—From late March until early April, tens of millions of Japanese flock to the parks and temple gardens across the country in pursuit of hanami, or cherry blossom viewing . Maruyama Park, in eastern Kyoto, the Gosho (Imperial Palace), in the center, and Arashiyama, in the west, are three of the city’s main viewing areas, but the perennial favorite is the cherry tree-lined canalside Philosopher’s Path that begins near Ginkaku-ji . Visit early on weekdays for a relatively crowd-free mile-long stroll beneath a gentle flurry of pink and white petals.

Jidai Festival—Proud Kyotoites by the thousands participate in the Jidai Matsuri, or Festival of the Ages, one of the city’s newest events (it started just over a century ago and is held annually on October 22), to commemorate the founding of Kyoto. A theatrical procession in costumes from the dynasties of the 8th through the 19th centuries snakes its way through town, beginning at the Imperial Palace and ending at the Heian Shrine.

Tokyo Screenplay Contest

Aoi Festival—The cherry blossoms are gone when the Aoi Matsuri, or Hollyhock Festival, floats through town on May 15, but spring will still be at its loveliest as hundreds of participants wearing the costumes of imperial courtiers parade to the Shimogamo and Kamigamo shrines to pray for the city’s prosperity. The annual Aoi dates back to the 6th century and is believed to be the world’s oldest surviving festival.

Gion Festival—On July 17, make way for 32 huge wooden floats that are part of the grand parade of the popular Gion Matsuri, a procession that asks for the protection of Kyoto. First held in the 9th century as a ritual purification to ward off plague in the humid summer months, it has grown into one of the most famous festivals in Japan. The three nights leading up to the grand parade are especially exciting; the streets of central Kyoto are lined with food stalls and packed with wandering locals wearing yukata (summer kimonos) and fanning themselves with traditional uchiwa (paper fans).

Where to Stay
Granvia—If traveling to and from Kyoto by train, the Granvia is conveniently located—as well as exceptionally comfortable. Its location above the futuristic Japan Railways (JR) station means that most of the stylishly equipped 535 rooms offer excellent city views, and despite its size, service is personal and attentive. The spacious rooms and public areas are all adorned with the work of Kyoto artists. There are nine in-house restaurants and bars to choose from, including a small branch of the highly esteemed Kitcho . Info: Tel 81/75-344-8888; http://www.granvia-kyoto.co.jp. Cost: from $120.

Hyatt Regency Kyoto—Located in the Higashiyama Shichijo district, just steps away from the Sanjusangendo Temple and the Kyoto National Museum, this is one of the finest of the city’s Western-style modern hotels. The elegant lobby leads to 189 comfortable rooms that are stylishly decorated using natural colors, white oak, and kimono fabrics. The spacious bathrooms offer separate deep soaking bathtubs and excellent Japanese-style showers, and the Riraku Spa has an extensive menu of traditional European and Asian therapies. Touzan Restaurant, modeled after a traditional-style Kyoto house with views of the hotel’s rock garden, is popular with both locals and visitors and serves charcoal-grilled specials as well as a large selection of sushi and sake. Info: Tel 81/75-541-3210; in the U.S., 800-233-1234; http://www.kyoto.regency.hyatt.com. Cost: from $200 (off-peak), from $490 (peak); dinner at Touzan, fixed menu $60.

Hotel Mume—Small and precious, Mume is located behind a big red door on a quiet street lined with antiques galleries in the geisha entertainment district of Gion. Seven rooms are tastefully decorated with antique European and Asian furniture and accented with karakami (decorative paper) panels made in Kyoto. Mume provides a delightfully tranquil experience, with an exceptional staff who are charmingly attentive and sensitive to guests’ needs. The hotel’s salon faces the Shirakawa canal and has a gorgeous view of cherry blossoms in the spring. Enjoy the view with a complimentary cappuccino or over a glass of wine during the nightly happy hour. Info: Tel 81/75-525-8787; http://www.hotelmume.com. Cost: from $220.

The Screen—Kyoto’s first high-design boutique hotel opened in 2008 with 13 chic and glamorous rooms, all spacious and uniquely decorated by different designers; one has floor cushions covered with locally woven brocade and hand-painted shoji screens, while another is more like a loft-style apartment with traditional-style earthen walls (depending on availability, guests can choose their room at check-in). Because of its central location, great food and drink are close by, but many guests gravitate to the hotel’s French restaurant, Bron Ronnery, which serves sophisticated meals made with locally sourced ingredients. The fifth-floor bar and champagne garden, Shoki, looks down on the surrounding temple rooftops and ancient trees of the nearby Imperial Palace. Info: Tel 81/75-252-1113; http://www.screen-hotel.jp. Cost: from $290; dinner at Bron Ronnery $90.

Tawaraya Ryokan—Of the country’s many traditional inns, Tawaraya, a 300-year-old family-run ryokan now in its 11th generation, is one of the most famous and luxurious. Elegance and refinement pervade its every aspect, from the subdued, almost spartan accommodations to the small, private gardens off most of the 18 rooms, each a harmonious blend of red maple, bamboo, ferns, stone lanterns, moss-covered rocks, and water. A restorative soak in the steaming water of a perfumed cedar tub is followed by dinner, an elaborate, multicourse, kaiseki-style meal served in your room by a kimonoed attendant. After that the shojis (paper screens) are drawn and a plump futon is brought out and made up with fine linen. Info: Tel 81/75-211-5566. Cost: from $1,000, inclusive (room only upon request).

Eating & Drinking
Giro Giro Hitoshina—The chefs may sport Mohawks or pink hair, but don’t be fooled: They know what they’re doing in this contemporary kaiseki. Artfully presented morsels of traditional dishes arrive on antique lacquer plates or funky ceramics; expect to be surprised and entertained and to eat very, very well. Giro Giro Hitoshina is surprisingly small but conveniently located on the Takase-gawa canal south of Shijo-dori, with counter seating downstairs and table seating on the second floor. It is open only in the evening, and its growing popularity means reservations are necessary well in advance. Info: Tel 81/75-343-7070; http://www.guiloguilo.com. Cost: set dinner $40.

Ippodo Kaboku Tearoom—Ippodo has been in the business of selling tea across Japan since 1717, and the original main store, with its walls of antique ceramic tea jars and the wood-beamed ceiling, is worth a visit for a glimpse of old Kyoto. The adjacent Kaboku tearoom is a newer addition and the perfect place to sample various grades of green tea grown in nearby Uji. From the green frothy matcha (the fine powdered green tea of the tea ceremony) to the lighter hojicha (a roasted blend of coarser tea leaves), you can make your own or have the staff do it for you, plus you can stock up on gifts for those back home. All teas are served with a traditional seasonal sweet—usually red or white bean jam encased in fresh mochi (pounded rice). Info: Tel 81/75-211-3421; http://www.ippodo-tea.co.jp/en.

Izusen—Izusen is tucked into the peaceful garden of Daiji-in, a sub-temple of the large Daitoku-ji complex in northern Kyoto. It specializes in shojin-ryori, Buddhist vegetarian cuisine, which mostly consists of soybean ingredients, such as tofu and miso, and ofu (wheat-gluten), alongside delicious seasonal vegetables. It is both nutritious and flavorsome, with sesame seed, citrus, and seaweed used to accent many dishes. A beautifully presented seasonal lunch is served outdoors in the temple garden, with dishes presented in exquisite red-and-black lacquerware bowls. Izusen is perfect for lunch either before or after visiting Kinkaku-ji and Ryoan-ji temples (see here and here). Info: Tel 81/75-491-6665. Cost: set lunch $30.

Kitcho—Kitcho enjoys a storied reputation for offering the country’s unquestioned finest in Japanese kaiseki (traditional multicourse) dining. It was described by science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke as “frighteningly expensive,” but if your purse can afford it, you’ll savor the gourmet meal of a lifetime—specifically designed to include impeccable regional produce of the season and the unique preferences of each guest (you’ll be interviewed when making a reservation), all in a quasi-ethereal environment. Preparations begin days in advance, and the most infinite care is taken in producing multiple courses of too-beautiful-to-eat artistry. The main restaurant is in Arashiyama, western Kyoto, but there is also a small branch in the Granvia Hotel at Kyoto station . Info: Tel 81/75-881-1101; http://www.kitcho.com. Cost: set lunch or dinner from $400.

Omen—Located on the Philosopher’s Path (and the perfect destination after a visit to Ginkaku-ji temple, see here), Omen promises the best udon (thick wheat) noodles in Kyoto. Omen’s noodles are renowned for being served with a delicious combination of fresh ginger, roasted sesame seeds, pickled daikon radish, and a lightly flavored shoyu (soy) dipping sauce. The menu also features some excellent side dishes such as tempura vegetables, fresh silken tofu, grilled hamo (conger eel), and other seasonal dishes. There are two other branches of Omen, in Gion and near Kiomyzu-dera. Info: Tel 81/75-771-8994; http://www.omen.co.jp. Cost: lunch $18.

Day Trips
Nara Koen—The highlight of the ancient parkland of Nara Koen is a colossal bronze image of a sitting Buddha that has drawn Buddhist pilgrims and foreign visitors for centuries. Nara’s most visited site, it is housed in Todai-ji, the Great Eastern Temple, the world’s largest wooden structure. The 53-foot Daibutsu (Great Buddha), the largest in Japan, was commissioned in 743, not long after Nara was founded as the capital of a newly united Japan. Buddhism flourished, and so did Nara as a center of politics and culture. Nara is on a smaller scale than Kyoto, but it too has a fascinating array of ancient buildings and temples. Nara Koen’s 1,300 acres of ponds, grassy lawns, trees, and temples are home to more than 1,000 deer, believed to be sacred emissaries of the temples’ gods. Where: 26 miles/42 km south of Kyoto.

Miho Museum—A mountain literally had to be moved—and then put back again to allow the completion of I. M. Pei’s masterpiece. Finished in 1997, it features some of the same design elements and materials he used at the Louvre . Two wings sit harmoniously in a natural setting, connected to the main entrance by a tunnel and suspension bridge. The Miho Museum houses the magnificent private collection of Asian art and antiquities belonging to the Koyama family, the founders of a new-age sect called the Shinji Shumeikai, which claims that spiritual fulfillment lies in the beauty of art and nature. Among the Miho’s treasures are classical Chinese, Egyptian, and Assyrian artifacts, but they are on display for only a few months every year, so check exhibition dates well in advance. Where: Shigaraki is 40 miles/65 km southeast of Kyoto. Tel 81/748-82-3411; http://www.miho.or.jp/english.

Himeji—The 16th-century Himeji Castle (White Heron Castle) is Japan’s oldest UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of its grandest. A fortress built in the days of the samurai, it offers an enlightening glimpse into Japan’s feudal past. Himeji Castle is one of only four remaining castles built before the Edo Period (1603–1867), and it never saw battle (its confusing maze of paths leading to the main “keep,” meant to repel attackers, was never tested); it thus retained its present shape for over 300 years (and is currently undergoing restoration through 2016, though all areas remain accessible). Himeji has frequently appeared in Hollywood productions, including the miniseries Shogun, the James Bond movie You Only Live Twice, and The Last Samurai. The adjacent Koko-en gardens are nine connected Edo Period–style gardens built on the former site of the castle’s samurai residences. Where: Hyogo is 111 miles/180 km west of Kyoto. Tel 81/79-285-1146; http://www.himeji-castle.gr.jp.

Himeji, said to resemble a bird taking flight, is called “White Heron Castle.”

In the Footsteps of Samurai
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Walking the Nakasendo
Narai, Tsumago, and Magome, Nagano, Honshu, Japan
In the 17th century the 330-mile Nakasendo—literally “the road through the central mountains”—was the principal inland route between the Imperial capital, Kyoto , and Edo, the Shogun’s seat of power (better known these days as Tokyo; see here). The 74-mile-long Kiso-ji section of the Nakasendo, winding its way through the Kiso Valley, is one of the most scenic and best-preserved parts of the route. Three of the 11 post towns (places where travelers would rest and take refreshments) that originally lined the Kiso-ji are particularly worth visiting for their efforts to preserve the look and feel of feudal Japan.

Traveling south by train from the central Japan castle town of Matsumoto, you’ll first come to Narai, which has a painstakingly preserved main street of wooden houses, inns, craft shops, temples, and a sake brewery. Cars running through Narai shatter the illusion that you’ve slipped back several centuries, but farther south in Tsumago the time travel effect is complete: The picturesque village surrounded by steeply raked forests is a pedestrian-only zone. Tsumago also marks one end of the most popular hiking stretch of the Kiso-ji, a 5-mile route along the original Nakasendo path that winds over a mountain pass to the equally well-preserved village of Magome.

The Japan-based travel operator Walk Japan covers Narai, Tsumago, Magome, and other post towns along the route in an organized tour that starts in Kyoto and finishes in Tokyo. Luggage goes by car while walkers put in a moderate 14 to 16 miles a day, staying in family-run ryokans (inns), many of which date from the early 1600s. These inns are a highlight of the trip, providing home-cooked meals, the ambience of Hiroshige feudal woodblock prints, and the occasional soak in onsen (hot springs). Japanese-speaking American or British academic specialists accompany you and provide running commentaries on both the Edo Period (1603–1867), when the road traffic of feudal lords, itinerant merchants, and pilgrims was at its height, and contemporary issues in Japan. For a luxurious stay at the beginning of your trip, consider a splurge at the venerable Tawaraya, a 300-year-old family-run ryokan now in its 11th generation .

Where: Tsumago is 50 miles/80 km south of Matsumoto. How: Walk Japan organizes 10-day tours of the region. Tel 81/90-5026-3638; http://www.walkjapan.com. Cost: $3,950, includes most meals. When: Mar–Nov. Originate in Kyoto. Best times: Apr for cherry blossoms; May for azaleas; late Oct–Nov for fall foliage.

A Venerated National Pastime
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Cherry Blossom Viewing
Yoshino and beyond, Nara, Honshu, Japan
Thousands of sakura trees make Mount Yoshino Japan’s top spot for cherry blossom appreciation.

Witnessing the exquisite yet fleeting beauty of countless cherry trees exploding into bloom is a quintessential Japanese experience not to be missed. Come spring, sakura (cherry blossom) devotees check daily TV weather reports for advice on when each area of Japan can expect these short-lived blooms to peak. The pale pink flowers’ ephemeral nature—they last no more than a week or two—draws crowds to wander beneath the heavily laden boughs and picnic and drink sake with family, friends, and work colleagues at hanami, or flower viewing parties, amid flurries of gently falling petals.

The cherry tree was imported into Japan from the Himalayas, and the custom of hanami is said to date back to 8th-century Nara , the capital that predates Kyoto. The courtly Chinese tradition of flower viewing was adopted and given the Japanese twist of mono-no-aware, the melancholy appreciation of the transient. A half hour’s train ride from Nara, visitors can witness one of the most beautiful natural wonders of the season: the blooming of tens of thousands of wild sakura across the slopes of Mount Yoshino.

The mountain is covered with centuries-old white mountain cherry trees divided into groves (called Hitome-Sembon, or One Thousand Trees at a Glance) that, according to their altitude, bloom at different times, usually beginning in early April. Marked pathways, scattered temples, a predominantly Japanese blossom-viewing crowd, and the shops and teahouses in the pleasant town of Yoshino promise an unforgettable experience.

You don’t need to venture into the countryside to take part in hanami. In Tokyo, cherry blossom hot spots include Ueno Park; Shinjuku Gyoen; the Chidori-ga-fuchi moat, at the northwest corner of the Imperial Palace grounds; and the stretch of the Meguro river flowing through Naka-Meguro, which becomes a tunnel of fluffy blossoms. Kyoto’s key blossom-viewing locations include the Kyoto Imperial Palace Park; the mile-long Philosopher’s Path, a sakura-lined walkway beside a canal that begins at the Ginkaku-ji Temple ; and Maruyama-koen, a park that’s home to the famous Gion no Yozakura (Night-time Cherry of Gion), a spectacular weeping cherry tree that is illuminated at night.

Where: Yoshino is 21 miles/34 km south of Nara, 42 miles/68 km south of Kyoto. When: usually in Apr, with lowest grove blossoming in early Apr. Best time: Apr 11–12 for Hanakueshiki, the annual cherry-blossom festival at Kinpusen-ji Temple in Yoshino, although in some years this can be on the early side for peak viewing.

Oscar Night – The Battle of Chile La Batalla de Chile (1976)

Oscar Night – The Battle of Chile La Batalla de Chile (1976) — A great two-part 3-hour-and-10-minute documentary about the events leading to the fall of Allende; this cross-section view of a collapsing government must be unprecedented—we actually see the country cracking open. The young director, Patricio Guzman, and his team have put a strict Marxist vise on the material; the film is structured to demonstrate that workers have to be prepared to use force of arms to defend their legally won gains, and much of what is presented as fact is highly questionable. But as a piece of epic filmmaking it is superb, and the editing is so subtle and fluid that the second half has the effect of one long, continuous shot. b & w

Great Writers

Literature’s Greatest Writers

Brutal, inane ‘London Has Fallen’ is even worse than the original

Brutal, inane ‘London Has Fallen’ is even worse than the original

Texas Great Writers

Literature’s Greatest Writers

So far, 2016 hasn’t been the best year for Gerard Butler. Just a week after the outrageously awful “Gods of Egypt” tanked at the box office, the Scottish actor is in yet another clunky, superfluous action movie. “London Has Fallen” is remarkable only because of how much worse it is than its inane predecessor, 2013’s “Olympus Has Fallen.”

Once again, Butler plays Secret Service agent Mike Banning, who’s all brawn when he’s protecting President Benjamin Asher (Aaron Eckhart), but gets all googly-eyed when he’s with his pregnant wife, Leah (Radha Mitchell). She’s two weeks away from giving birth to their first child, and Mike’s pained expression shows how badly he wants to stay home. But he has a job to do, by god, so off he goes to London with the president for the funeral of the British prime minister, who has died unexpectedly.

You can see where this is going: A head of state suddenly expires, but before anyone finds out whether the death is, you know, part of a terrorist plot, every leader imaginable from around the globe flocks to Britain. They end up as sitting ducks in a painstakingly orchestrated attack. We meet them all — the Canadian prime minister, the French president, Italy’s head of state (who’s with a much younger woman, naturally) — just in time to see them all get blown to smithereens in various fiery blasts. Just about every London landmark also falls victim to the attacks, except for the London Eye, so tourists can still spend way too much to see the skyline.

When the British prime minister dies under mysterious circumstances, world leaders flock to London for the funeral. But a deadly plot ultimately takes hold to kill the powerful leaders, including the U.S. president. (Gramercy Pictures)

Of course, because of Mike’s clever last-minute schedule switch, one man will not fall prey to these radicals: the president of the United States.

The terrorist behind the massacre is Barkawi (Alon Aboutboul), No. 6 on the FBI’s most wanted list. We know this because the secretary of defense (Melissa Leo) informs the Situation Room of his identity right before the vice president (Morgan Freeman) launches into an awkward summary of Barkawi’s misdeeds. Let’s all hope that the officials in the real Situation Room are more tuned in. Here, we get a bunch of clowns who do little beyond gasp and cover their mouths every time some new horror pops up on the television screens.

Back in London, Mike and the president are on the run, trying to evade teams of terrorists on motorcycles. The terrorists want to capture the president in order to decapitate him on live television, streamed around the globe.

You won’t have to contemplate this grisly scenario too deeply because the assault on your senses never stops: bad guys getting stabbed in the eye, the stomach, the neck; good guys getting peppered with machine-gun spray. And all the while it’s impossible to comprehend what’s happening because of the ham-fisted editing.

Maybe director Babak Najafi realized a movie needs more than nonstop havoc. So he inserted a bizarre quiet interlude in the middle of the action so that Mike and the president can bond over fatherhood. It’s an artless grab for our heartstrings. At least, unlike the rest of this loud, dumb bloodbath, it’s good for a laugh.

R. At area theaters. Contains strong language and violence throughout. 99 minutes.

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